Method of making shoes



F. L. AYERS METHOD OF MAKING SHOES Filed Feb. 9. 1938 May 30, 1939.

Patented May 30, 1939 STATES PATENT OFFICE 9 Claims.

This invention relates to shoes and shoe construction, and more particularly to shoes of the general type illustrated in my Patent No. 2,065,786 granted December 29, 1936, in which an interlock v.5 between the lasted shoe and the outersole is provided. In some aspects, however, this invention may not be limited to that particular type of shoe.

One object of the present invention is to make possible the employment of a very thin innersole. This not only reduces the cost of the shoe, but it also makes the sole more flexible which is an important advantage.

A further object of the invention is to provide a method by which the shoes may be made commercially rapidly and easily, the parts being so conditioned by the steps of the process that the outersole and the lasted shoe go together accurately and easily and without any particular care or skill required of the operators.

For a more complete understanding of this invention, reference may be had to the accompanying drawing in which Figure 1 is a fragmentary section through the 15 marginal portion of a last and showing the innersole secured thereto and the upper materials being drawn over preparatory to lasting.

Figure 2 is a view similar to Figure 1, but showing the upper pulled over and temporarily se- 80 cured by tacks and cement.

Figure 3 is a fragmentary inverted plan of the toe portion of the shoe lasted as shown in Figure 2.

Figures 4 and 5 are views similar to portions of Figure 2, but showing in Figure 4 lasting by cement and without tacks, and in Figure 5 lasting with tacks and without cement and thread lasted while the tacks remain in position.

Figure 6 is a fragmentary section showing a molding operation for the toe inseam portion of the shoe.

Figure '7 is a fragmentary section showing the lasted shoe conditioned for the securement thereto of the outersole.

Figure 8 is a fragmentary section through the toe portion of the completed shoe.

Figure 9 is an inverted plan of the toe portion of the lasted shoe showing the molding operation which is also shown in Figure 6 as about to be performed.

Figure 10 is a somewhat diagrammatic view showing an operation to be performed when the upper materials are trimmed after rather than before the molding operation. a

Figure 11 is a view similar to Figure 7, but with a different sole construction.

Figures 12 and 13 are fragmentary sections through the marginal portions of soles of still different constructions.

Figure 14 is a fragmentary section showing the shoe lasted like a stitch down shoe.

Figure 15 is a fragmentary view similar to Figure 7, but showing one method of preparing the shoe and outer sole when the shoe is lasted by the method of Figure 14.

Figure 16 is a fragmentary section showing a method of securing the outersole to the shoe lasted as in Figure 14.

Referring to Figure 1 of the drawing, at l is indicated a last to the sole face of which is secured a relatively thin innersole 2. This innersole which may be of one piece, or built-up, is formed about its margin inwardly slit to form a pair of lips 3 and 4. The inner or upper lip 3 lies in contact with the sole face of the last, but the lip 4 is inclined away therefrom, as illustrated. The upper face of the lip 4, which, when it is turned away from the last becomes the outer face, may then be coated with a temporary cement at 5 and the upper materials, including the lining 6,

the toe stiffener 1, and the vamp 8, and if a doubler is used, the doubler also, are then pulled over and secured temporarily to the cemented face of the lip 4, or cement may be applied just before the wiper takes effect and the tacks are driven. This may be done to advantage on the usual turn pulling over machine, except that the shoe will be lasted right side out instead of wrong side out as in the case of the turn shoe. This turn pulling over machine wipes in the toe portion of the shoe and drives a few tacks at intervals therearound, usually seven, nine or eleven such tacks being driven, and when this machine is applied to a shoe constructed in accordance with the present invention, the tacks will be driven in as shown at It in Figures 2 and 3.

When the cement at 5 has sufficiently hardened the tacks may be removed and the shoe thread lasted, the threads being extended through the upper materials and the lip 4 as shown at [2 in Figure 5. In this view, however, the thread lasting is shown as accomplished without previously withdrawing the tacks. This may be done to advantage where the temporary cement has been omitted and where round tacks have been employed which will permit the sewing operation to be performed without interference from the tacks. In some cases it may be possible to avoid the use of tacks entirely, this being shown in Figure 4 in which the parts are shown as held in lasted position as by cement, a wiper l5 being employed to bring the parts into close engagement, and to facilitate the hardening of the cement the wiper l5 may be heated. When the wiper is removed the upper materials will remain secured to the lip 4. The shoe is then thread lasted as previously described. For this thread lasting it is desirable to use a relatively large thread in order that this thread may be employed to present a surface which will readily take the cement used for permanent cement process work such, for example, as the usual pyroxylin cements. For still better adhesion the thread may be pre-saturated with the cement as by passing it through a cement tank on the sewing machine.

It is then desirable to trim the inseam, trimming oif the projecting'portions of the upper materials and the lip 4 below the seam as shown in Figure .6 in which the shoe is shown as turned right side up.

Next the forepart may be formed to the desired contour of the last, and for this purpose the usual wiping and toe molding mechanism commonly used in the lasting of stitch-down shoes, except that the wipers should be longer, may be employed. The wipers 20 shown in Figures 6 and 9 applied to such a stitch-down machine, but preferably having their upper edges cut back as at 2! to avoid contact with the shoe upper in the final inward position of the wipers, are brought down and inwardly against the end portion of the shoe somewhat above the inseam preferably throughout substantially the entire forepart, as shown in Figure 9, wiping the upper materials against the toe end of the last and continuing downwardly against the outer face of the inseam stitching I2. These wipers are preferably heated. This inseam stitching is then pressed and flattened by the wipers, and the final portion of the wiping operation causes the stitching to be widened and the outer face of the innersole rib comprising the upper materials, the stitching l2 and the lip 4 to be turned into substantially perpendicular relation to the outer face of the innersole adjacent thereto, as shown in Figure 7. This conditions the lasted shoe for the attachment thereto of the shoe outersole shown in Figure 7 at 25. This outersole is provided about its margin with an inwardly extending flange 26 having an undercut lower face 21. Cement being applied to the parts, the outersole is then applied to the lasted shoe with the inseam rib 22 inwardly of the flange 2B and by applying pressure between the parts, the inseam rib is bent outwardly, so that its outer face is flared or inclined outwardly and projects under the flange 26 and into contact with its under cut face 21, the confronting faces being conformed together as shown in Figure 8. Where necessary or desirable a small amount of sole filler may be applied just inwardly of the stitching rib 22 before the outersole is applied, this filling in between the two soles as shown at 28 in Figure 8. Only a small amount of filler is necessary, however, and in some cases it may be dispensed with entirely, as during the molding operation of the forepart the shoe is pressed down hard against a supporting plate 29 so that the bottom of the seam rib is substantially flattened. This completes the formation of the shoe.

Where a shoe with a spring heel is to be made, the molding action shown in Figures 6 and 9 is also done about the heel portion of the shoe as far forwardly as the shank portion and when the outersole, which is flat lengthwise when presented to the shoe and is provided with the interlocking rib 26 around the heel end as well as around the forepart and shank, is applied and pressure exerted between the parts, the bending of the outersole to conform to the longitudinal curvature of the lasted shoe brings the flange 26 at the ends of the shoe inwardly so as to engage with the stitching rib portions at both toe and heel of the shoe so that when they are pressed together the desired interlock of the parts is produced.

At the shank portion of the shoe the outersole and lasted shoe do not require the accurate interlocking engagement between the outersole and the lasted shoe which is provided around the forepart, and in the case of the spring heel shoe is provided around the heel as well, and these parts may be secured together with the interlock without requiring a molding operation such as is important at the forepart.

In case the inseam trimming is not accomplished beforethe molding operation shown in Figures 6 and '9, it may be accomplished afterwards, whereupon it will usually be found desirable to treat the inseam rib to a second molding operation in order that its outer face may be turned into substantially perpendicular relation to the outer face of the innersole, so that when the outersole is presented thereto, it will pass inwardly of the inner edge of the outersole flange on opposite sides of the shoe. Thereupon by exerting the pressure between the parts after the cement has been applied, the rib will be distorted outwardly and come in under the outersole flange and produce the interlock therewith. Such a molding operation is illustrated in Figure 10 in which the innersole rib is passed between the rotary pressing rolls A and B by which the innersole rib may be turned from its dotted to its full line position.

The outersole flange may be produced in a variety of ways, being integral with the outersole as shown in Figure 7, or it may be formed as a separate strip which may be secured thereto as shown in Figures 12 and 13 simulating an outersole stitch of a welt shoe. In Figure 12 this additional strip is shown as comprising a flange portion 30, and a base portion 3| which may be integral with or separate from the flange portion 30 and extends sumciently far inwardly from the flange 30 so as to include the entire width of the cement by which the outersole and the lasted shoe are secured together. struction, when the body of the outersole has worn, this body portion may be removed by cutting the stitching or other separable securing means at 32 and applying a new outersole body which may be secured in position by a new set of fastenings at 32 in a manner similar to the ordinary method of repairing welt shoes. In Figure 13 the separate strip element 33 which carries the marginal flange 30 is secured to the top face With such a conof a beveled edge portion 34 of the sole body 35.

claimed herein as it forms subject matter. of my application Serial No. 79,681 filed May 14, 1936, for Shoe and method of making the same.

While it is usually desirable in shoes of this type to bring the upper materials in over the sole face of the last during the lasting operation as this results in a shoe having the desirable appearance of awelt shoe, and makes possible the proper securement of the outersole by pressure exerted on the lower face of the outersole which is transmitted to the last, it may be desired to produce more the appearance of a stitch down shoe. 7

Referring to Figure 14, the upper materials are lasted in accordance with usual stitch-down practice to an innersole 40 which projects beyond the sole face of the last, the margins of the upper materials being turned outwardly over the top face of the innersole extension and secured by the stitching 4!. The marginal parts are trimmed and the wiping operation of Figure 9 is performed, molding the upper tothe last adjacent to the innersole and pressing the outer face of the stitching. The outer face of the inseam rib may be pressed to substantially perpendicular to the innersole if desired, or the inner edge of the outersole flange 26 may be turned upwardly as shown in dotted lines in Figure 15 so as to facilitate the assembly of the outersole on the lasted shoe. This turning of the inner edge of the outersole flange 2B is suitable since the interlock between the lasted shoe and the sole will ordinarily be outwardly of the last so that the last cannot be employed to receive the thrust from the outersole pressing means such as the inflatable pad 42 shown in Figure 16. The thrust is therefore taken care of by a member 43 which engages the top face of the outersole margin and the flange 26.

From the foregoing description of certain embodiments of this invention, it should be evident to those skilled in the art that many changes and modifications may be made without departing from the spirit or scope of this invention as defined by the appended claims.

I claim:

1. In the method of making a shoe which comprises thread lasting a shoe and forming a portion including the inseam threads for interlocking engagement with an inwardly directed marginal flange on the top face of an outersole, that step which comprises wiping the upper adjacent to the inseam about substantially the entire forepart against the last and continuing downwardly against the outer face of the inseam stitches previous to the application of the outersole.

2. In the method of making a shoe which comprises thread lasting the shoe and forming a portion including the inseam threads for interlocking engagement with an inwardly directed marginal flange on the top face of an outersole, those steps previous to the application of the outersole which comprise trimming the inseam, and then wiping the upper adjacent to the inseam about substantially the entire forepart against the last and continuing downwardly against the outer face of the inseam stitches while exerting pressure against the trimmed face.

3. The method which comprises securing to a last an innersole having a marginal portion projecting from the sole face of the last, pulling over the upper materials into contact with the upper face of said projecting portion, thread lasting outer face of the shoe upper about the forepart adjacent tothe innersole to the last and flattening the outer face of the inseam portion including the stitching, applying an outersole having an inwardly directed marginal flange at its top face to the lasted shoe with said outer face inwardly of said. flange and cementing and forcing the lasted shoe and outersole together with said face outwardly inclined and in engagement with the under face of said flange.

4. The method which comprises securing toa last an innersole having an inwardly slit margin forming a pair of lips, pulling over the upper materials into contact with the adjacent faces of said lips, thread lasting the upper materials to the outer lip, trimming the inseam portion to form a rib comprising upper materials, the outer innersole lip and the stitching, said rib projecting from the lower face of the innersole, molding the outer face of said rib including the stitching to the desired smooth contour throughout substantially at least the forepart of the shoe substantially to the shank portion thereof and with the outer face of said rib projecting substantially perpendicular tothe outer face of the innersole inwardly thereof, applying an outersole having an inwardly directed marginal flange on its top face to the lasted shoe with said rib inwardly of said flange, and cementing and forcing said inseam rib portion under pressure outwardly beneath said flange.

5. The method which comprises securing to a last an innersole having an inwardly slit margin forming a pair of lips, pulling over the upper materials into contact with the adjacent faces of said lips, thread lasting the upper materials to the outer lip, molding the outer face of the inseam portion including the outer face of the inseam stitches throughout substantially at least one entire end of the shoe substantially to the shank portion to the proper smooth contour, trimming the inseam, bending inwardly the rib comprising the trimmed margins of the upper and outer innersole lip so that its outer face is substantially perpendicular to the outer face of the innersole inwardly thereof, applying an outersole having an inwardly directed marginal flange on its top face to the lasted shoe with said rib inwardly of said flange, and cementing and forcing said inseam rib portion under pressure outwardly beneath said flange.

6. The method which comprises securing to the last an innersole having an inwardly slit margin forming a pair of lips, the inner of said lips overlying the sole face of the last and the outer lip projecting away therefrom, pulling over the upper materials and securing said upper materials temporarily in position in contact with the outer face of the outer of said lips, thread lasting said upper materials to the outer face of said outer lip, trimming the inseam, molding the upper above the inseam stitches to final contour and the inseam stitches and upper material margins to present their outer faces substantially perpendicular to the outer face of the insole adjacent thereto, applying an outersole having an inwardly directed marginal flange portion on its upper face outwardly of said perpendicular outer face, and cementing and forcing said face portion under pressure outwardly beneath and into contact with said flange.

7. The method which comprises securing to a last an innersole having an inwardly slit margin forming a pair of lips, the inner of said lips overlying the sole face of the last and the outer lip projecting away therefrom, pulling over the upper materials and applying cement between said upper materials and the outer face of said outer lip, wiping in said upper materials about the,

outwardly beneath and into contact with said flange.

8. The method which comprises forming a marginal projection on the lower face of a lasted shoe normally extending outwardly, temporarily turning said projection downwardly from its normal position sufficiently to clear an inwardly projecting mating flange on an outersole, applying cemenigand then. assembling said sole on'the lasted shoe and applying pressure to force said lasted shoe projection outwardly beneath said flange.

9, The method which comprises securing the upper of a shoe about its margin to an element positioned beneath the sole face of the lasted shoe by a line of stitching to form a marginal portion normally projecting. outwardly toward the edge of the shoe sole and presenting the stitching threads: on opposite faces thereof, pressing and spreading the stitching threads exposed on the outer face of said portion and temporarily turning said portion downwardly, applying cement tor the outer face of said portion including the exposed stitching thread, and then applying an outersole having a marginal inwardly directed flange within which said portion may extend, and

applying pressure to return said portion toward its normal outwardly extending relation and beneath said flange and with the cement bonding to the pressed stitching thread.

FRED L. AYERS. 

